Simplicity Fall Patterns!

I love new patterns. No, seriously, it's a little sad how much a small batch of new patterns can totally make my day. I've even got my little routine down. I'll open up the page and then very carefully just look at the first pattern. I'll click on it, study it, look at the line drawing, sizes offered, fabric, etc, and dream a bit. Then I'll go back and very carefully look at the second, not looking ahead at all, and repeat for each pattern until I've seen them all. And then I'll go back through again.

This probably tells you more about me than I really want you to know. Hm.

Anyway, some new patterns to enjoy. As a whole this wasn't a thrilling release but neither was it horrendous. A good half of the patterns are ones I'd consider making but don't HAVE to have. The rest were ones I won't, for whatever, do anything with but could see others wearing them. So overall a B level collection. Good, not great.

So let's look at this stuff...

2860

While the picture doesn't look all that fantastic, the concept is a good one. The pattern comes sized for three body types, slim, medium, and curvy. There's also "custom fitting directions" included. Hm. I don't make pants but largely because I can only handle so many failures before deciding I like skirts better anyway. So if I DO try pants again, this would be a great pattern to start with. Provided it lives up to the hype!

2848

Every so often I think to myself, "Self, you need a jumper." Then self remembers that self doesn't own any shirts to go under the jumper. So self passes. But at some point self really needs to just get over it and make up a little mini wardrobe that has a shirt, jumper, and skirt. Two outfits from three patterns - not bad. And the jumper is great for wearing when the shirt decides to ditch that very important bust button and I'm already running late. This happens to people besides me, right?

2862

I love vests. I have no idea how to really wear one (hence my utter lack of vests in the wardrobe) but still love them. Maybe adding one to the little wardrobe the I want to make for this coming fall. Assuming, of course, I actually do it. I am a little concerned, however, about chanelling the sexy teacher look. This is my first time teaching an adult class and I want them to be awed by my l33t teaching skillz, not by my, um, other assets. Ahem. So, well, we'll see. On the good side, a vest is an addition, not a necessity, and it only takes a little bit of fabric so it's a great last-minute addition to a wardrobe. And, if it does send the wrong message then I'm sure DH and I can find another use for it. :) As a, um, cleaning rag. Yeah. That's what I meant. What did YOU think I meant? :)

2866

First off, see the picture on the far left? Brown vest and pants with colorful top? Just make the top high necked and you've got my grandmother's wardrobe. Exactly. Now my grandmother is seriously chic but I'm not certain I want to copy her style. At least not at this point in my life. But with that said, I really like the dress and top. Great little jumper and the top's sleeves can be added to the dress to make an nice fall dress. Cute. It's kind of an easy version of Vogue 8411. An easy version with more shaping. Hm. This could be very good.

2867

Too stinkin' cute for words. This almost makes me wish there were small children in my life that I could make cute little embroidered booties for. Of course reality points out that small child will probably have a few younger siblings by the time I'd get around to actually making this. But still. Hm. I wonder how small these go? Because my American Girl dolls could use some nice shoes and they're not going to outgrow my creations before I can get around to making them.

2851

I need an occasion that calls for "old west bordello" dress. I'm tired of white tie, black tie, and casual dress events. Let's see some creativity. Though a Steam Punk art gallery just opened nearby (with Studio Foglio artwork on display!) and they ARE having a closing party later this month ... nah. At least not this time around. Maybe next time. But DH and I DO need to get up there, perhaps this Friday.

2859

Divert your eyes from the sequins and look at the little ukalele - er, guitar - that the guy's holding. See it? That's actually a bag. A bag that you can make. With this pattern. I must have it.

Best of the Summer from Butterick, Simplicity, and McCall's

After the horrors of tents on straps (thanks keely for the mental image!) and horrendous jumpers, here's something far more soothing.  The top five patterns (in my book) from Butterick, Simplicity, and McCall's.  Enjoy!

#5 - McCall's 5658

The more I look at this, the more I like it as a great summer party dress set. The inverse pleats at the waist give it shape while being very now, and the different necklines give you the option to make it perfect for a summer wedding (A) or a more formal affair (B).  And C is just right for a casual and cool day dress.  Also, with the sea of sacks this season, it's great to see something that shows a waist!

Plus I just love that shade of blue, especially with gold.  So that might affect my judgment.  Still, neat little dress, neat options, neat job McCall's!

#4 - McCall's 5651

It really doesn't get more basic than this - undies, bras, and slips in simple, easy-to-sew styles.  But what really makes it special is that attitude.  Look at that, it's a DIY Style pattern targeting those in their teens and 20s.  I love that and want to nurture and encourage it as much as I can.  Really, just looking at that pattern makes me think of my two sad slips and want to replace them with knit silk versions.  Maybe with some contrast lace and ... see what it's doing?  It's INSPIRING, just from the envelope.  Now that's something special.  And this is one pattern that won't be out of style in a year or two.  No, we've been quietly wearing all these for a while and they're here to stay.  

Besides, just a few weeks ago someone on PatternReview was complaining about the lack of slip patterns available.  Well, here you go, one new one to add to the drawer!  Thanks, McCall's, and great job showing how a pattern picture (even if it's just line drawings) can be truly inspiring!  And even more for helping the new generation catch the sewing bug.  Great job!

#3 - Butterick 5218

The Big Shirt is back and this is a neat variation on that simple theme.  I really like the placket, the front pleat, the different collars (specifically A), and the sleeves.  The only thing I'm not liking is the length of C but, fortunately, there's three other lengths to choose from.  This style looks great over skinny jeans on those fortunate rectangles who can wear both styles and tucked into a high waisted skirt for us hour glasses.  Made up in a rough cotton it's got the safari look that's in, while made up in something nicer, like silk or a nice cotton, it's perfect for the office and church.  

Similar to this, and a close runner up, is McCall's 
5664.  Again we see the elegant placket that I love.  Does it tell you anything about my button-hole sewing skills that I'd rather do a placket than a row of buttons?  I thought so.

The sleeves are different on this, and different in a good way.  I really like the shorter sleeves and the 3/4 bishop sleeves can be really great, especially as fall creeps up.  The reason I went with the Butterick over this one, though, is the twin problem of the volume and the under bust tie.  On the model it's not bad, though the bow's a little odd.  However I'm not certain how it'll look on others, especially me.  That tie keeps it from being tucked in as a random high-tie plus tuck equals two waist lines.  One is plenty for me, thank you.  And those two style details are so 2008 that they're going to date this pattern long before the Butterick goes out of style.  I might still get the McCall one because I think it has potential but if either become TNTs, I'm pretty certain it'll be the Butterick.  Still, can't go wrong with one more pattern in the drawer!

#2 - Simplicity 2899


Remember on the "Worst Of" list how McCall's completely bombed with their plus sized shirt? Remember me telling them to check out Simplicity's stuff to see how it SHOULD be done? Well, this what I was talking about.   This is a FANTASTIC jacket with more options than you could exaust in a wardrobe of jackets.  Those lines are incredibly flattering, giving waist definition and showing off the legs.  And it's only available in Women's sizes.  That's right, one of this year's hottest jacket patterns and women less than size 18W are missing out.  How's that for a change?  

I love that Simplicity has embraced their Women's line enough to give them great, modern styles made for THEM (not a 16-year-old size 6) rather than throwing them the normal assortment of sacks and sized-up misses stuff that never fits right.  Good for you Simplicity!  

#1 - Butterick 5206
What a fantastic basic wrap dress.  I love it.  Great V-neck (and work-safe with the addition of a camisole), great sleeve options, fantastic obi-belt for showing off the waist, and nice, flattering skirt.  What's not to love?

Sure, it's no show-stopper but that's what makes me think this'll be this year's best little knit dress.  You can make it up in different fabrics with different twists and each one will be fantastic.  I can imagine this in a solid black with a red belt and contrasts, a cute floral with solid contrasts for summer, and a rich olive with black accents for fall.  I need to get this pattern and then get back to sewing knits.  It's been too long and this is just the pattern I need to get started again!

Good job Butterick, you win Best Pattern for Summer 2008!  At least in this competition.  I guess it's even since you also lost ... but we're putting all memories of jumpsuits out of mind and focusing on this lovely dress.  Good job!

Summer Patterns

irst McCall released their summer line. And I yawned. Then Simplicity and I wasn't sure what to say. Now Butterick has shown their line and once again I'm underwhelmed by far. It'd be one thing if, like the Vogue line, they were all so crazy, so out there that I could find some enjoyment commenting on them. Or if they were horrendously terrible. After all, I'm not above laughing at travesties, provided no blood is involved. Or, best, if each pattern were inspiring, beautiful, and new jewels for the pattern boxes.

Unfortunately the 3 lines managed to miss all possible targets. There were one or two crazy items, but no theme like Vogue had. Just the odd crazy, like Uncle Ben at a funeral. Yeah, there were a few bad calls - but very little that was so mind-shatteringly wretched that I HAD to drop everything and comment. And there were the occasional nice items, but again, nothing worth writing about. However once the total count has reached three lines and 99 total patterns I figure I have to say SOMETHING. So I present the best and worst from the three lines.

The Worst

#5 - McCall's 5652

 Let's start at the top, shall we?  Spaghetti straps forbearing any bra wearage?  Check.  Tiny little bodice designed to best minimize and pull down the most endowed woman?  Check.  Gathered empire waist to completely obsure any hint of a figure?  Check.

So in basic we've got a 4-year-old's dress in misses' sizing.  Gack.  And the fabrics and colors picked for the sample couldn't be worse.  Seriously, who decided this was a good idea?  Maybe done in lace and frills with a cute undershirt covering up all that skin for a western take on sweet lolita ... no, not even that would work.   Maybe just adverting the eyes until McCall quietly discontinues this odd pattern.

#4 - McCall's 5666

This shirt really rather deserves the triple six in the pattern number.  Really, what team of evil comes up with something like this?  It's like some twisted designer, saturated with images of anorexic teens, decided that any woman with a healthy or slightly more than healthy BMI must be horrendously ashamed of herself and unwilling to go out the door in anything less than a full on duvet cover.  Really.  And then, when someone complained about the lack of shaping, the designer said "FINE!" and cinched it in at one of the worst possible places.  Look at that poor model.  She's either drugged into staying there as the camera snaps or dreaming up various ways to torture the designer.  Preferably the latter.  Good grief, pay a ten minute visit to Simplicity and LOOK at their Woman's stuff!  There's a number of designs that help women rock their bodies of all sizes.  This - this is not rock.  This is karaoke.  Karaoke at a country western bar in Portland at 3 am during a beer shortage.  Except worse.

#3 - Butterick 5227

This is one of GFY's scroll down disasters.  That is, it starts out innocently enough.  Yes, that white top's too wide and unfitted and the fabric looks like it came from a long picked over dollar bin but it could be nice.  And the brown version is rather cute on top with that scoop neck and nice little cap sleeves.  And then you scroll down.  No waist definition, flare at hips and then - wow.  Extra volume right at the thighs.  Every woman's worst nightmare and you went there, Butterick, you went there.  Really, a little shorter and it might work.  Longer (as shown in the yellow dress) and it's quite nice.  But right there?  Oh no.  Oh no no no no no.  And it's just made all the worse by the fabric and fitting.  I get it, this is a fast and easy (and super-tacky) pattern.  But if it doesn't look good in a fast and easy fabric then why by all that's good are you selling it???  Ick.

#2 - McCall's 5656

I actually debated on this one.  After all, the two line drawings aren't bad at all.  A lot more volume than any woman I've met likes in her jumper but beyond that they're inoffensive.  But that white one.  Oh my.  We see here that someone clearly failed their proportions class.  Badly.  Those sleeves are just too big, those shoulders too small, the neckline too oddly smallish big, and the dress too wide for any of it to work.  It really makes you wonder - why did no one step back and LOOK at the dress and say, "hey, the sleeves are really messing it all up - how long would it take to rip 'em out and make this baby sleeveless?"  It's not like they don't have other garments to shoot.  Then just sketch sleeves on the yellow drawing and, while it's probably still not great, there's at least a chance someone will buy the pattern.  Maybe. 

#5 - 5229

I'll admit, Butterick's Fast and Easy line has never been exactly cutting edge.  Actually it's almost exactly what my favorite thrift store back in Virginia regularly has in their pattern rack.  For 10c a piece.  Half off on some days.

But for all my low expectations ... this one still stunned me.  Stop for a moment and look, really look, at E and D.  That's right.  You're not hallucinating.  Those are, in face, drop-waist, wide necked, dowdy-sleeved jumpsuits.  

If this isn't a sign of the end times I don't know what is.

I'm looking and a sadistic side of me is trying to imagine how they could look worse.  Maybe if you turned them into high waders, those pants that make a model look stubby - oh wait, D is already doing just that.  I know, pockets at the thighs so that the woman looks even wider ... oh, they beat me to it.  Ok, I'm stumped.  Apparently these can't get any worse.  And my eyes are watering.  This is, without a doubt, the WORST pattern released this year.  Yay butterick, you lose!

And this post is getting long ... ok, then, top five tomorrow!

Simplicity Summer of 08

Hot off the presses and (even better) 99c at Joann's this weekend, Simplicity's Summer offerings.  Overall I liked this line.  Yes, there are a lot of bags posing as garments with various details but, well, that's the style.  Besides, after seeing so many I think they're growing on me.  Dangerous, I know.

So let's look at the looks I'll be adding to my collection and what looks really should be avoided, 99c sale or not.

Out

*crickets chirp* 

You know, no matter how hard I look I can't find any actual garment travesties in this group.  There are some I won't be adding (specifically anything with square necks or for children) but none that I can really hate.  At least in the garment devision.  However in the craft division....

A pattern for a clown.  I HATE clowns.  Scary, creepy, twisted things.  I've never really liked clowns but then there was that time at Busch Gardens when a mutant undead clown chased me through a whole forest of limping, grasping, hideous undead clowns ... I'm totally scared for life.

Bad pattern for making me relive those nightmares.  Ick.

Onto much happier thoughts...

So Hot, So Mine

1. S2941

If you know me, you know costumes are my weakness.  After all, a good, historically accurate costume just doesn't go out of style.  And they're so much more fun to wear than everyday stuff.  Sadly there just haven't been many good patterns released recently.  So it's good to see Simplicity and Andrea Schewe (my favorite designer) releasing at least this one pattern.  It's something!  And it's a something I think my husband would highly appreciate.  :)  I really like all the different pieces in the pattern though I wish they'd stop using those barbie dolls for the front and back views and switch to the nice basic line drawings they use for all their other patterns.  It's hard to see the details with those dolls.

4.  S2938

I really like the dress in this pattern, it's got that easy-breezy black dress look with just a nod to current trends with the gathered neckline.  And it's got a size zipper!  I so prefer those over back zippers as they're much easier to reach to zip up.  I always have trouble contorting myself just right to zip up those last three inches with back zippers.  In regards to the rest of the pattern, I can't say I'm a fan of the boxy hobbit jacket with just the single button.  I really don't get why I'd want a jacket with sleeves too short to keep my arms warm and a front that gapes open giving me a cold tummy.  Plus, as a pear I really don't need that tent like line making my hips look even bigger.  So a pass on that one.  The pants look nice but as pants and I don't get along I'd rather that they'd included a skirt.  Oh well.  Still, I'll buy it for the dress and that's enough for me.

3 S2940

I'm a fan of all things kimono at the moment.  It started with sewing one up for a friend's wedding present and then another and then one for myself and then, well, it kind of went from there.  I love how, with the right fabrics, one pattern can be a shirt, a jacket, a cool weekend robe, a sexy geisha robe, and, I'm sure, much more.  While I'm really pleased with the pattern I've morphed beyond recognition into my own creation, that doesn't keep me from wanting a whole slew of similar patterns to draw details from.  In this particular case I really like the sleeves and the boxy and potentially authentic lines.  And just look at that skirt!  Is it really a high waisted wrap skirt with just a hint of an obi?  I so want.

2.  S2927

Dressaday.com's getting to me, I love this pattern in part because it has pockets. I didn't used to have a thing for pockets. The buttoned collar is a great detail, giving it a nice 60s vibe and all the graceful lines look like they add nice shaping. I also like the short little sleeves, though it's driving me crazy that I can't remember the name of that style. It'll come to me. Overall it's a cute little summer dress that would look ever so chic with wedge sandals and a kitschy necklace and it should whip up in an afternoon of easy sewing. What's not to love?

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And my favorite and the one I vote most likely to make the Best Patterns of 08 list...

1. S2923

Shirt dresses take a little extra work in construction but pay off so well. They've got a forever-chic look and blend professionalism with comfort. Fantastic. This one is an especially good version. I love the flattering princess seam, the pencil and aline skirt options, the buttons that stop a little below the waist (buttonholes are a pain on my machine so the less the better), the graceful back yoke, the gathers, the many sleeve options, and, best of all, the mandarin collar. I think my asian side is showing. The asian side gained from living in asian neighborhoods, not through any bloodline. Sadly my body is pure western european with all the difficult to fit curves that come with it. But back to the shirt dress, I can so see making that up in three or four versions for throwing on for classes next semester. So easy and so chic.

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So, what was your favorite pattern from this collection? Any you thought should have gotten nixed at the drawing board?

Simplicity's Early Spring Line

It's like Christmas with all the new patterns coming out! So let's look at Simplicity and see what's hot and what's not. Unlike with the McCall's like the problem this time isn't with narrowing down my favorites but with coming up with five I liked. This particular line isn't horrendous, it's just ... eh. The kind that, five minutes after I close the window, I have trouble remembering.

But when has that ever stopped me from commenting?

So let's look at what's hot (or at least lukewarm) and what's not

HOT

#5 - S3510



A very cute, very easy summer dress for the little girl in your life. Ignoring that red and white item, isn't that green dress one that just looks like daisies and long summer days and lime pop-sickles from the ice cream man? You could make up a half-dozen incarnations with various fabrics, sleeves, and trims, and no one would be the wiser. Cute, cute.

#4 - 2995



I'm seriously considering holding a sewing class on campus. A sweet lady's been giving new Bernedettes to anyone who asks so I figure that, for once, everyone who wants to learn to sew can without me having to have my own arsenal of machines. If I do then we'll have an intro class (this is called a sewing machine ... this is a needle...), a beginning sewing class using one of the earlier released PR patterns, and then an advance beginners class with this one. Why this pattern? Not because it's terribly fantastic ... but it's got sleeves, a zipper, and two darts, all of which are good second steps along the sewing way and yet they're in a very simple, easy to fit dress. Plus the students should already be familiar with the very slightly different way PR patterns give their yardage requirement and layout instructions so why rock the boat. I also love how there's just such a positive "can do" attitude with these PR patterns. The variations are wonderful and really make it possible that the new sew-ers will come away with a dress they'll actually wear. So it gets on my hot list.

#3 - 3503



The more I look at this the more I like it. I mean it's like a jack-of-all-patterns; there's that cute duro-esque day dress with the kimono sleeves, that hot red cocktail dress that needs a stunner of a necklace, and that glamorous 30s style long dress with the wide shoulders that just screams red carpet. I like it. Not love it but, for this line, like is good enough to get it on the hot list.

#2 - 3502



I LOVE the Grecian goddess version there. I think it needs a drapier fabric and more gathers but the overall idea is beautiful. Not sure I could wear that style but I'd be very willing to try.

#1 - 2996



I love these shirt dresses and I swear I'll get around to making one sometime this year. The blue version is so sleak and chic and I like the 50s vibe the two longer ones are giving off. The pink version's the only one I'm not feeling. Dropped waists and gatered skirts really should be outlawed on anyone over the age of 9. But that's the only misstep in this pattern and and easy one to ignore with the two other skirt option.

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Top 5 Nots coming up soon!

New Simplicity Project Runway Patterns

Judging by the chatter on sewing boards, these poor patterns just aren't getting any love. The general consensus seems to be "that's it?" I understand where the fuss is coming from - when Simplicity announced they were doing PR patterns they never said what aspect of PR they were inspired by. So many hoped that this would be a new version of Hollywood patterns where experienced sewers everywhere could recreate some of the most memorable looks that we saw on our personal silver screens. Or fuzzy with red bleed screen, if you're at my house. We need a new TV. So when, instead of a flowing Uli beach dress, simple but fab Laura Bennet gown, or fabric version of Austin's corn dress, Simplicity instead delivered these patterns ... yeah, frustration was bound to happen. But you know what? I like them. Yes, Simplicity SHOULD have, from the start, showed their hand and said that they were releasing "be your own designer" patterns whose chief tie to PR is the DIY nature of them. But even so... step back, let go of the preconceptions you had, and approach these patterns as what they are - designs made specifically for the Craftster type who'll make a dress out of a pillowcase and spare ribbons. The type who use a pattern as a template for their own designs, who'll ask "why can't it be done this way" and attempt a crazy alteration without any formal training or even sewing experience.

Looking at it from that perspective - I submit that these patterns are, if not brilliant, at least very, very, bright. These patterns have a "you can do it!" vibe to them that I LOVE. Granted, that's probably because I have an inner craftster so I am part of their target audience. Still, they're good.



I bought this one last week at the $1.99 sale at Joann's. I love it! Neatest of all, they include a design sheet with a croquis and all the pieces you need to design your own dress for her. It reminds me of my childhood when I'd make outfits for my paper dolls. The instructions look very clear and easy to follow without being condescending. There's also some very nice touches, like how they have you face the underarm part of the sleeveless dress with bias tape instead of the standard fabric facing. I also love the inclusion of pockets. I love how this dress could be made up as a first project and worn out that evening. I've never gone for the standard beginner projects of pillowcases, pj bottoms, and the like. My first sewing project was my graduation dress for HS. It had darts and a zipper. I didn't know how to do either but, well, I learned. Anything easier and I wouldn't have cared enough to try. So for those with my learning style this dress is fantastic.




I was severely tempted to buy this one as well, though I managed to resist. Those front pleats are just too much of a 'what not to wear' on me. Still, cute design. Fitting, which frustrates more beginners than anything else, I'd bet, is at a minimum with this, as with all the PR patterns. Very, very smart.




I'll admit, I'm less enamored by this one. That square neckline is simply too harsh. But I'm sure someone who likes that look will take this design and run with it. Good for them.




Honestly this who short, boxy jacket trend has me confused. It's mutual, at least... all the short jackets I've tried look equally confused on me. Oh, well. I like how they give various closure options for those of us who can't do a four-step button hole to save our lives. Great idea. And, according to Lucky, these little hobbit jackets are terribly trendy and you need to get one yesterday. Right. I'll stick with classic jackets that keep me warm, thanks.




They remembered our curvy sisters! And they remembered them with a stunner of a pattern. Look at that - just get the fit right and you've got a whole closet full of looks. A satin evening gown, cute summer halter, little black dress, nice print work dress, it's all there. I'd love to see that slit-neck version done with some lovely hand-worked embroidery along the neckline and sleeves. Great dress!




They remembered our future designers as well. Seriously this pattern could win for most versatile. Look at all those options for dressing it up, dressing it down, embellishing, and just generally rocking this pattern. Fantastic!


Overall a nice collection. My ONLY suggestion for improvement would be to replace that second misses dress with a more fitted garment along the lines of the woman's or girl's. We like showing our figure as well! But really, that's it. As a line of blank canvas patterns waiting for a new designer-in-training to own them these patterns all wins, in my judgment. Disagree if you like, but I'm a fan of this line.

Though I do hope that one of the PR4 challenges is to design a wardrobe for Simplicity. I'd love to see what they could do!